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Çanakkale |
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Though celebrated for its setting on the Dardanelles, ÇANAKKALE has
little to detain you. However, it is the best base for visiting the
Gelibolu (Gallipoli) sites and the sparse ruins of Troy . Almost
everything of interest in Çanakkale is within walking distance of the
ferry docks , close to the start of the main Demircioglu Caddesi. The
nearby tourist office (daily 8am-8pm; winter closes 5pm; tel 0286/217
1187) is worth a stop if only for their free map of the Gallipoli
battlefields. The bus station is out on the coastal highway Atatürk
Caddesi, a 15-minute walk from the waterfront; if you're arriving on the
bus from Istanbul, get off at the ferry rather than going out to the bus
station. In the town, the Çimenlik Park (daily 9am-8pm), southwest of
the bazaar, houses a replica of the minelayer Nusrat, which stymied the
Allied fleet by re-mining zones at night that the French and British had
swept clean by day; it is festooned inside with rather forgettable
newspaper clippings of the era. The Naval Museum nearby (daily 9am-noon
& 1.30-5pm; $1) is more worthwhile, featuring photos and military
paraphernalia, including Atatürk's pocket watch which stopped a shell
fragment at Gelibolu and saved his life. Some 2km south of the centre,
the Archeological Museum (daily 8am-noon & 1-5pm; $1) is accessible by
any dolmus along Atatürk Caddesi labelled "Kepez" or "Güzelyali" and has
exhibits from all over the area, including exquisite gold jewellery from
nearby tombs.
Except for a crowded couple of weeks during mid-August during the
Çanakkale/Troy Festival, or on ANZAC Day (April 25) when the town is
inundated with Antipodeans, you'll have little trouble finding budget
accommodation . Anzac House , Cumhuriyet Meydana 61 (tel 0286/213 5969,
www.anzachouse.com ; £5-10/$8-16), has small but neat rooms and Internet
access, as well as dorm beds (under £5/$8). The clean and airy, newly
renovated Yellow Rose , Yeni Sok 5 (tel 0286/217 3343, www.yellowrose.4mg.com
; under £5/$8), in the street behind Kervanseray , is a good option with
some en-suite rooms, Internet access and dorms (under £5/$8). The
eccentric, dilapidated Kervanseray round the corner at Fetvahane Sok 13
(tel 0286/217 8192; under £5/$8) is a quiet place in an old mansion.
More upmarket, the Anafartalar , overlooking the ferry landing (tel
0286/217 4454; £10-15/$16-24), offers en-suite doubles with TV and
fabulous views over the straits, breakfast included. There are several
campsites - at Güzelyala, Dardanos and Kepez - all accessible by minibus
from the minibus garage. The expansion of the local university has led
to a broadening of Çannakale's restaurant and café options. On the
quayside south of the ferry jetty, the long-established Entellektüel
isn't cheap but offers great fish and scenic views. One street back from
the water, Dada xs m , 17 Yala Cad, offers a good range of kebabs and
stews, while one street further inland, the female-run Köy Ev , 15
Fetvahane Sok, offers a taste of real Turkish home cooking. Nearby on
Cumhuriyet Cad, Ta x Firin does a brisk trade in lahmacun and pide -style
fast food. For drinking , there is a burgeoning café and bar scene on
Yala Cad and Fetvahane Sok, with the latter boasting the current top
spot, Depo. The TNT bar on Saat Kule Meydana is popular with the Anzac
crowd. There are also numerous Internet café options in this area, with
Efe Internet Café overlooking the water.
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