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FETHIYE |
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FETHIYE ( www.fethiye.net ) is well-situated for access to some of
the region's ancient sites, many of which date from the time when this
area was the independent kingdom of Lycia. The best beaches, around the
Ölüdeniz Lagoon, are now much too crowded for comfort, but unlike Kas,
which is confined by its sheer rock backdrop, Fethiye is still a real
market town and has been able to spread to accommodate increased tourist
traffic.
Fethiye occupies the location of the Lycian city of Telmessos , little
of which remains other than the impressive ancient theatre , which was
only unearthed in 1992, and a number of Lycian rock tombs on the
hillside above the bus station. Most notable is the Amyntas Tomb, carved
in close imitation of the facade of a temple. You can also visit the
remains of the medieval fortress, on the hillside behind the harbour
area of town. In the centre of town, off Atatürk Caddesi, the small
museum (Tues-Sun 10am-6.30pm; $1.50) has some fascinating exhibits from
local sites and a good ethnographic section. The most interesting piece
is the stele found at the Letoön, dating from 358 BC, which was
important in translating the Lycian language.
One of the most dramatic sights in the area is the ghost village of KAYA
KÖYÜ (Levissi), 7km out of town, served by dolmuses from behind the PTT.
The village was abandoned in 1923, when its Anatolian Greek population
were relocated, along with more than a million others, to a country
which had never been their homeland, and whose language many of them
couldn't speak. All you see now is a hillside covered with more than
2000 ruined cottages and an attractive basilica , to the right of the
main path 200m up the hill from the road, one of three churches here -
but the general state of neglect only serves to highlight the plight of
the former inhabitants. There are plans to make an international "peace
and friendship" conference centre here, but ordinary travellers must
still stay at a couple of pansiyons at the edge of Kaya.
Ölüdeniz is about two hours on foot from Kaya Köyü - through the
village, over the hill and down to the lagoon - although it is also
served by frequent dolmuses from Fethiye. The warm waters of the lagoon
make for pleasant swimming if you don't mind paying the small entrance
fee, although the crowds can reach saturation level in high season - in
which case the nearby, more prosaic beaches of Belcegiz and Kidrak are
better bets. Ölüdeniz is also the starting point for the Lycian Way ,
Turkey's only marked trekking route which starts from near the Montana
Holiday Village on the Fethiye-Ölüdeniz road and winds along the coast
almost as far as Antalya.
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