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GETTING AROUND |
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Public transport in Turkey is easy and inexpensive. The train system
is limited and slow, but makes a fun change from the myriad private
buses used by most Turks. Short stretches are best covered by dolmus - a
name referring either to shared taxis in towns or to minibuses that link
rural villages.
Buses and dolmuses
Long-distance bus is the best way of getting around. There is no
national bus company; most routes are covered by several competing firms,
which will all have ticket booths at the otogars (bus stations) from
which they operate, as well as offices in the relevant town centres.
Terminal is the name given to a new bus station in a town that already
has an otogar . (In bigger cities, the better bus companies will run a
minibus transfer service between their central offices and the otogar or
terminal - useful if the latter is some way out of town.) There's no
such thing as a comprehensive timetable. Better companies will have a
seasonal schedule of sorts but even these are subject to weekly or even
daily changes and it's best to shop around to find the most convenient
departure time ; bigger companies tend to make fewer stops enroute,
which means their quoted journey time is more accurate. Bus companies in
smaller otogars employ touts to drum up trade, but larger otogars are
mercifully free of them. Fares vary only slightly between the best and
scruffiest companies: as a broad example, expect to pay about $3 per
100km on the better buses. Top companies such as Ulusoy, Pamukkale,
Kamil Koç and Varan are worth the bit extra in comfort, service and
safety. From October to April (ie outside the main tourist season), the
bigger companies may stop running buses altogether along routes that are
popular with summer visitors, in which case you may have to make do with
slower, more uncomfortable local minibus services; in extreme cases you
may not find any transport at all.
For short hops you're most likely to use a dolmus , a car or minibus
that follows a set route, picking up and dropping off along the way;
sometimes the destination will be posted on a sign at the kerbside, and
sometimes also within the dolmus itself, though you'll generally have to
ask. On busy urban routes it's better to take the dolmus from the start
of its run; otherwise, hail it like a taxi to stop it in the street.
Fares are very low; passengers traditionally make up change between
themselves and pass the total up to the driver, a system less haphazard
than it sounds.
Trains
Turkey's train network , run by the TCDD, is patchy. The most useful
services are the expresses between Istanbul and Ankara, and other long-distance
links from Istanbul or Ankara to main provincial cities such as Edirne,
Konya, Eskisehir, Denizli and Izmir. Most routes are slow, tortuous and
wonderfully scenic. Sleeper cabins are available on overnight services
at very reasonable rates. Reservations for most journeys can be made in
Istanbul, Izmir or Ankara, though they're only really necessary at
weekends or on national holidays. Basic prices are about the same per
kilometre as the buses; students with an ISIC card get a twenty-percent
discount. InterRail is valid, Eurail isn't.
Driving, hitching and taxis
Given the excellent bus services, you don't need to drive in Turkey, but
doing so can let you see more of the country more quickly. Roads are
usually adequate, although often dangerously narrow. Drive on the right,
and give priority to the right, even on round-abouts. Speed limits are
50kph in towns, 100kph on main roads and highways. Foreigners are rarely
stopped by the police at the frequent checkpoints, but if you are you'll
be required to show your driving licence and proof of ownership (or car-rental
papers) and may be given an on-the-spot fine for not wearing a seatbelt
or for speeding. You have to pay a hefty supplement to Green Card
insurance for it to be valid in Turkey. In the event of breakdown or
other problems the Turkish motoring organization TTOK (tel 0212/282 8140
or 269 0875) can provide advice and put you in touch with approved
repair centres. Car rental is expensive, from $500 a week with unlimited
mileage. Local chains tend to be a lot cheaper, and are responsive to
bargaining, particularly in the bigger cities/resorts. Comprehensive
insurance is rare; if you have an accident make sure you get a police
report or you'll be held responsible for repairs.
Hitching is an option where public transport is scarce or unavailable,
and lifts tend to be frequent and friendly. You may be expected to share
a glass of tea with the driver upon arrival. It is polite to offer a
little money, though it will almost always be refused.
If you're travelling in a small group of three or four people, it can be
quicker and often not much more expensive to negotiate a price with a
taxi. This is a very good idea if you want to see a couple of places in
a day, and may work out cheaper than the equivalent bus or dolmus fares.
Ferries
Nearly all Turkey's ferries are run by the Türkiye Denizcilik Isletmesi
(Turkish Maritime Lines or TDI), who operate everything from inner-city
shuttles and inter-island lines to international routings. Overnight
services are popular, and you should buy tickets well in advance through
authorized TDI agents. There are five classes of cabin on long-haul
ferries, where it's also possible to reserve a "Pullman" reclining seat,
but if you leave booking to the last minute you won't even get one of
these. Sleeping on deck is viable - but you need a seat booking before
you'll be allowed on board. Fares are reasonable; for example, a third-class
double cabin from Istanbul to Izmir costs about $60 per person, with a
car costing roughly the same. Students aged 28 or under get a thirty-percent
discount with an ISIC card.
Planes
The domestic air network is fairly comprehensive, with full-fare prices
roughly five times that of ground transport. Still, the size of the
country may mean that, on a short visit, you resort to a plane at least
once to make the most of your stay. The state-run THY is the main
operator, flying between most big cities; the only alternative currently
is Onur Air, offering limited summer services from Istanbul to Antalya
and Bodrum.
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