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MARMARIS |
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MARMARIS ( www.marmaris-online.com ) rivals Kusadasi as the largest
and most developed Aegean resort. Its huge marina and proximity to
Dalaman airport mean that tourists pour in more or less nonstop during
the warmer months. According to legend, the place was named when
Süleyman the Magnificent, not finding the castle here to his liking, was
heard to mutter "Mimari as " ("Hang the architect") - a command which
should perhaps still apply to the designers of the seemingly endless
high-rises. Ulusal Egemenlik Bulvari cuts Marmaris in half, and the maze
of narrow streets east of it is home to most things of interest, though
little is left of the sleepy fishing village that Marmaris was a mere
two decades ago. The bazaar is now little more than an area of covered
streets, and only the Kaleiçi district, the warren of streets at the
base of the tiny castle, offers a pleasant wander. The castle museum (Tues-Sun
8am-noon & 1-5.30pm; $1) has a worthwhile archeology and ethnography
collection.
A new bus station has recently opened about 1.5km south of the town
centre, from where you can pick up a dolmus to take you to the town
centre, or it's a $3 taxi-ride. Many of the bus companies also offer a
free transfer minibus to their offices in the centre. The ferry dock
abuts Iskele Meydana, on one side of which stands the very helpful
tourist office (summer daily 8.30am-7.30pm; winter Mon-Fri 8.30am-noon &
1-5.30pm), which dispenses town plans and accommodation details. The
development of package tourism has ensured that hotels here are
expensive and welcoming pansiyons few and far between - but the tourist
office is tuned in to the needs of backpackers and can help out. The
cheapest option is the Interyouth Hostel at Tepe Mahallesi 42, Sok 45,
in the bazaar close to the Atatürk statue (tel 0252/412 3687, interyouth@turk.net
; under £5/$8), with around 180 beds in single, double and dormitory
rooms, a lively rooftop café, and facilities including Internet access
and a competitively priced travel service. Behind the huge Tansas
shopping centre is the Nadir (tel 0252/412 1167; under £5/$8) which has
both en-suite pansiyon rooms and hotel rooms complete with air-conditioning
and TV. Another good budget pension is the Yesim , west of the centre
towards Uzunyala beach at Atatürk Cad 60, Sok 3 (tel 0252/412 3001;
under £5/$8), a well-maintained place offering en-suite rooms. More
upmarket is the great-value Marina Motel (tel 0252/412 6598; www.turquaz-guide.net
; £5-10/$8-16), which has clean en-suite rooms and a breakfast terrace.
Getting a decent meal at a reasonable price is a challenge, although the
fabulous Kirçiçegi on Kübilay Alpagün Cad behind the bazaar offers
excellent traditional Turkish food at reasonable prices. Among the
several options in the bazaar area close to the PTT, Marmaris and Liman
are both acceptable and are frequented by the locals. To the west,
Uzunyali harbours various pizza joints and a reasonable Turkish
restaurant, Turhan , at Uzunyali 26. For drinking , Panorama , up on the
castle hill, offers great views, and the nearby Haci Mustafa Sokagi (aka
"Bar Street") contains a wealth of other drinking venues, such as Davy
Jones' Locker and Casablanca . Lin Net, 38 Atatürk Cad opposite the
Atatürk statue, has Internet access.
Ferries to Rhodes ($35 one-way or day-return; $50 open return; sometimes
less in high season) run daily in high season, dropping to one a week in
winter. Agents include Yesil Marmaris, Barbaros Cad 13 (tel 0252/412
2290), and Engin Turizm, 3rd floor, G. Mustafa Cad 16 (tel 0252/412
6944). There's a once-weekly car ferry (cars $150 one-way).
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